The cruxes were easy to protect and again took pro nicely, with an additional piton halfway up the pitch for protection. However since I had to start so low, the rope drag was significant by the top of the chimney and I was unable to continue much further, particularly given that I was leading on twin ropes. The climb is rated a Class 3. It had been a few years since the last time I climbed it, and due to the crowds we took a route the was left of the main route bypassing the chimney pitch the true summit (there was a line of 4 ppl waiting and 3 at the top). The pair of climbers I had been following started up the final pitch, the crux of the entire climb with a dual crack system about 10 feet above the belay, followed by another hand crack leading to an exposed traverse to the base of the summit pinnacle. There might be bolts on the top, but usually not. Reports have varied on the amount of climbers on route and at the base, but the most common numbers we heard were 30-40 people, including approximately 10 parties on variations of the first 2 pitches alone. Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to email this to a friend (Opens in new window), Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window), climb the day previously in Yosemite Valley, The Unmentionable, Photographer’s Delight, Long’s Folly and The Carousel. Although there’s a fairly clear path, you need a head for heights and a good level of fitness to summit this iconic Drakensberg peak, as the scramble up the final section is tricky and exposed. Gavin Raubenheimer, Peak High Mountaineering from SOUTH AFRICA writes: The Standard Route is a C grade scramble route. John Muir Trail From Tioga Pass Road to the Merced River, Waterwheel Falls and the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne Trail, Benson Pass - Northeast Yosemite Grand Tour, PCT: CA Section I - Tuolumne Meadow to Sonora Pass, John Muir Trail: Cathedral Lakes Trail to Clouds Rest, Tuolumne Meadow to White Wolf via Pacific Crest Trail, Cathedral Lakes Trailhead to Yosemite Valley via Half Dome, Tuolumne Meadows to Tenaya Lake via Pacific Crest and Glen Aulin Trails. The area is home to Cathedral Peak, whose SE Buttress is claimed to be one of the best alpine rock routes of the Cascades. The unmarked turn off for the Southeast Buttress route is about a half mile down the Cathedral Lakes Trail, and can be easily missed as I had on my first visit when I climbed the peak via the standard fourth class Mountaineers route. The chimney system is notorious for being a bottleneck on the route, and although there is an option to climb a 5.7 pitch to the left of the chimney or 5.8 pitch to the right, the three of us wanted to climb the route in its traditional style on our first outing. Cathedral Peak: Climber's Approach is a 9.3 kilometer lightly trafficked out and back trail located near Yosemite Valley, California that features a lake and is rated as difficult. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. It took us roughly 2 hours on the approach to reach the base of the buttress, finding only two other groups on the route so far for the day. Cathedral Peak Climbing Notes. Fees are $35 per vehicle or $30 per motorcycle. It is a priceless trip that culminates in a very dramatic summit needle that offers a complete panorama of beautiful wilderness. Home; Areas by State; Map; Favorites; Mobile; Widget; California | Cathedral Peak. Therefore I needed to down lead the final 15 feet of the route, then traverse to the west through a notch to reach safer class 3 terrain. Cathedral Peak from near Cathedral Lakes, with Eichorn Pinnacle in the foreground. Thus came into being the idea of climbing Cathedral Peak. Although we had one more day of climbing planned, we were all quite exhausted from the 13 hour outing, and felt that a day of single pitch climbing the following day would probably be more reasonable than another multi pitch adventure. So we continued down the class three slabs, utilizing two rappel stations off trees to avoid some of the more exposed sections. Lots of people as it was a holiday weekend. The range is … Cathedral Lake makes a great base camp area for those who would want to do this as an overnight trip. Daily; Hourly; Map; Averages; 11/9/2020 << Previous Week. Forecast High / Low Precip. One of the most stunning peaks in Yosemite, Cathedral is blessed with some great moderate climbing. There were two teams at the base of the chimney already, so I had to build an anchor a bit lower than I would’ve liked, just above the broken ledge system. The hike in to the peak is taxing but the climbing and scenery make it well worth it. If you are entering on foot, horse, or bike the fee is $20 per person. Home; Areas by State; Map; Favorites; Mobile; Widget; California | Cathedral Peak - Santa Barabara. Prepared on this outing, we identified the turn off and began to follow the creek towards the saddle between Cathedral Peak and Echo Peaks. There are 19 walks/hikes that leave … The summit is a small block big enough for a couple people to squeeze on. Cathedral Peak is an outstanding granite pinnacle in the Tuolumne Meadows area of Yosemite National Park. Downclimbing off the … When I reach the top of this pitch, there was no where to build an anchor due to the cluster fuck of climbers and four separate teams at the base of the summit pinnacle either climbing or down climbing from the top. Cathedral Peak is an area of the Drakensberg Mountains in KwaZulu-Natal to the northeast of Lesotho. Our packs were already packed from the day before and we quickly started down the trail, passing several groups of other climbers and backpackers on our hike in. Powered by the National Weather Service Digital Forecast Database. Only about half our group did that final ascent, and even without the climb at the end the views are well worth the trip. Cordelette anchors, no bolts. Current climbing forecast for Cathedral Peak - Santa Barabara. It is situated between Ndedema Dome and the Sphinx. By this time, a queue was beginning to form at the base of the route with at least three other parties roping up. This Cathedral Peak Hike is totally doable for the average hiker. But if it sounds intimidating, help is at hand. Cathedral Peak Climbing Notes. WHAT IS CATHEDRAL PEAK? It's a great big lightning rod - get off ASAP if thunder comes your way. I built an anchor just above the top of the chimney, and brought Colin and Holly up to the chimney base to reset an anchor. … The southeast buttress of Cathedral Peak is one of the finest Alpine climbs in the North America. I had to wait a good 30 minutes before there was space for me to build an anchor to bring up Colin and Holly. The views from the summit are 360° looking across Tuolumne Meadows, higher Sierra peaks to the south, and Yosemite Valley to the west. Tlanyaku Pass is a steep pass located in the Cathedral Peak area. The follower of the team above us was new to trad climbing and struggled through the crux section, again causing a small bottle neck on this final pitch. Unfortunately, there is no rappel anchor at the top of the summit pinnacle, which would probably alleviate some of these congestion issues. Some research on the internet threw up a trip report which suggested that, rather than the standard ascent route, the Southeast Buttress could be done as a solo scramble at a grade of about 5.4, with the crux being a chimney about half height. The first few pitches are on low angle terrain that gradually steepens and becomes more difficult. We had to wait a bit for some of the groups to clear and I attempted to pass a twosome as they were re-racking at the base of the chimney. Not exactly ideal. We started very late and ended up going down in the dark. Nice rock. The trail wastes little time gaining elevation, climbing up through pine forest on granite slabs. BACKGROUND. The mountain is also known as Mponjwana (Little Horn) by the local Amangwane people. The route at this point converges with the traditional mountaineers route with a final 15 feet of fourth class to reach the top of the summit pinnacle. Cathedral Peak (10,912') is one of the best beginner alpine climbs in the country. The trailhead is accessible to passenger cars. Be the first to submit your climbing note! Surrounded by wilderness areas, Cathedral Peak is the ideal place for unwinding in superb nature. We slept in Tuolumne Meadows Campground and woke up early, getting to the Cathedral Lakes trailhead at 7:30 AM. Cathedral Peak is an outstanding granite pinnacle in the Tuolumne Meadows area of Yosemite National Park. Learn how your comment data is processed. A twosome was just starting at the first pitch and with no other climbers behind us, we took our time racking up and sorting gear at the base. The majority of the trail is a steady but not-too-steep uphill until near the top of the peak. We left a non-locking carabiner so people can rap down. Cathedral Peak; Ascents; World; Ascents; Competitions; Guadalcazar Climbing Festival 2021; La Sportiva Christmas Contest; CLIMAX Online Photo Contest; Greek Climbing Calendar Contest 2021; Help. Gorgeous views from the top of Cathedral Peak. The climbing is fun and easy to protect, the rock is grippy and features cool knobs (consistent with the Tuolumne formations), and the approach is mild enough to make Trailhead: Cathedral Lakes, normally full services in Tuolumne Companions: Holly, Colin Pickles. Once she had cleared the first of the difficulties, I started up myself. Become a ClimbingWeather.com sponsor and help the Access Fund! Cathedral Peak’s approach and descent are currently free of snow. We got home around midnight and passed out, exhausted from the long day of fantastic climbing. Powered by the National Weather Service Digital Forecast Database. From a climbing standpoint, the granitic walls provide good crack protection between smooth blocky faces. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Cathedral Peak, as well as the logistics of climbing … Some parties and guided parties use a rope in some places. Probably one of the best multi-pitch rock climbs I have ever done. There are a few bolts with chains in along the harder sections. One of the most stunning peaks in Yosemite, Cathedral is blessed with some great moderate climbing. Site Login | Register. Normally the second pitch would cut right earlier than I had, however there were groups starting to attempt a pass one another (although cordially) on these early pitches. The party ahead of us was still at the ledge, so I built an anchor off to the side and backed it up to the half living tree, waiting to bring up Colin and Holly until the party had climbed on. Homepage; About theCrag. The trail is primarily used for hiking, running, rock climbing, and nature trips and is best used from May until September. The SE Buttress features 1000 feet of 5.7-5.9 steep hand and finger cracks on superb alpine granite. Cathedral Peak is part of the Cathedral Ridge which is at right angles to the main range. Cathedral is a visually aesthetic peak to behold (and to climb on) because it is comprised of granite. You can also purchase a park specific annual pass for $70. With 800 feet of sweeping granite, the climb provides six pitches of technical climbing culminating in a pinnacle summit just large enough for several people. This granite is fractured on pleasing vertical and horizontal lines. We took a short break on some exposed slabs and enjoyed our views of nearby Unicorn Peak and Tuolumne Meadows behind us. I brought up Colin and Holly as quickly as I could with several teams below us, and the three of us topped out on what we quickly agreed was the best climb we had ever done. It’s climbs like Cathedral Peak why I decided to get into rock climbing in the first place. For other climbing epics I’ve had like Cathedral Peak, read on for climbing the Matterhorn and climbing … The Cathedral range in the Drakensberg, with its numerous free standing peaks and magnificent mountain scenery, is one of the most favoured parts of the Berg for backpacking and rock climbing.. Did you know? The first pitch, at least as shown in the Supertopo, traverses left under some overhang slabs that easily take protection. Rock climb class 4. The descent trail around the shoulder of the Southeast Buttress was very well-defined and easy to follow as we dropped down back to our packs. Nestled in the unspoiled surroundings of the Drakensberg mountain range lies Cathedral Peak Hotel, one of South Africa’s premier resort hotels. Please submit any useful information about climbing Cathedral Peak that may be useful to other climbers. Two other well known spectacular free standing peaks, the Column and Pyramid are situated south west of Cathedral Peak Forest Station. This is the best place to find multi-pitch climbing in the Santa Barbara area with three routes containing three pitches- South Face, Cave Route and the face route of the South Face. There’s a bush at the top of the class 4 slab down climb that has a sling on it. It took us a bit over an hour to descend the climbers trail through the forest and back to our cars, needing headlamps for the final half mile. Because of its quality and moderate grade, this is one of the most crowded routes in Yosemite. Enjoy the climb and the views! I again reached the belay station too early and built a gear anchor to give the team head of us time to vacate before bringing up Colin and Holly. The southeast buttress of Cathedral Peak is one of the finest Alpine climbs in the North America. As we approached the Southeast Buttress, the trail steepened considerably and Colin dropped back, not acustommed to the high altitude hiking. And the views from the summit are totally worth it. The cams that I had placed on the initial ascent were left for me to clip in as I down led, and I placed one more cam on the traverse before dropping down to the ledges below, building an anchor off a tree. About Cathedral Peak State Forest. Other peaks in the spur are the Twins, also known as the Triplets, … I started up the first pitch once the twosome ahead of us were both at the first belay station, a half-living pine tree sticking out of the granite slabs. We were now no longer climbing the route in the traditional pitch by pitch sense, but needed to get to a large ledge that denotes the start of the final pitch. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new trip reports by email. There are seven climbing routes on Cathedral Peak with a mixture of trad and bouldering routes. The only drawback might be the propensity for lichen to cover the rocks. Cathedral Peak: Climber's Approach is a 5.8 mile lightly trafficked out and back trail located near Yosemite Valley, California that features a lake and is rated as difficult. I started up the last 10 feet, using a crack across the summit to build a top anchor. As one of the few free-standing peaks in the area, it’s something of an iconic symbol of the region. I don't recommend this for one main reason: The descent is not straight-forward by headlamp. Ironically, it was the one that had gotten stuck on our climb the day previously in Yosemite Valley. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. Holly was quite displeased that I had soloed the section on my previous visit six years prior. Fun climb but can be very busy. Cathedral Peak is a free-standing mountain within the magnificent Drakensberg Mountain Range in KwaZulu-Natal. So I was quite excited when the group agreed to try and summit the peak via the Southeast Buttress route as the main event for our climbing weekend. It was tempting to hog the summit to ourselves given the outstanding views, particularly in the low afternoon light. Luckily there are a number of variations if you need to … The ledge is large enough to hold at least four groups, and I followed more broken cracks and ledges up to the large belay station covered in loose blocks. Site Login | Register. Holly came next, with Colin coming last, unable to free one of the cams which had opened in the flared crack. YOSAR and Helicopter Rescue Team (HRT) members were dispatched, and the patient ultimately flown out from the base of Cathedral Peak. I traversed slightly to the right at an alcove as shown on the topo, and up a dirty broken ledge to just below a chimney system that denotes the start of the next pitch. This large ledge was probably the only significant loose rock encountered on the entire route, and I made sure to radio down to Colin and Holly to be mindful when climbing through the section. It is a 3,004 m (9,856 ft) high free standing mountain in the Drakensberg. These are for belaying people who are not confident on exposed C grade scrambles. I used a series of parallel off-width cracks for the start of the pitch before traversing right beneath the pine tree belay. Luckily on this route, there are so many variations the groups were able to begin climbing off to our right, a 5.7 variation. Climb. My friend and I hiked/climbed this in July 5, 2019. Daily; Hourly ; Map; Averages; 12/5/2020 << Previous Week. Cathedral Peak is one of the most aesthetic routes in Tuolumne. Yosemite National Park charges a fee to enter. The trail is primarily used for hiking, running, rock climbing, and nature trips and is best used from May until September. On a clear day, you will get to see the Amphitheatre ridge 50km to the North, the Rockeries section of Mnweni Valley and Champagne Castle 40km to the South. Peakbagging and Rock Climbing in California, Arizona and beyond, Cathedral Peak 10,941’ Sierra Nevada – Rock Climbing Total Time: 13:00 Distance: 7.4 miles Elevation Gain: 2600′ Crux: Class 5.6 Pitches: 7 Protection: Cams BD 0.4-4, set of nuts and hexes. Current climbing forecast for Cathedral Peak. We took our remaining food out of the bear box then hopped in the car, heading down Tioga back to home. Cathedral Peak Hotel is located in one of the most beautiful parts of the Drakensberg, surrounded by mountains on all sides. The alpine glow across the peaks at sunset was otherworldly, with the low pinkish light cast across Yosemite’s high peaks. Although the last 100m to the summit can be a tad daunting, the rest of the hike is non technical and offers some incredible views. The climb consists of five pitches of easy and moderate crack and face climbing on perfect rock. Climbing Cathedral peak in the Drakensberg mountains of South Africa. Cathedral Peak is part of the Cathedral Range, a mountain range in the south-central portion of Yosemite National Park in eastern Mariposa and Tuolumne Counties. Become a ClimbingWeather.com sponsor and help the Access Fund! However there were two groups waiting to get to the top, and we still needed to downclimb the final bit of the route. The other worth while routes … Post was not sent - check your email addresses! The views from the top were a as outstanding as I remembered, with Tuolumne Meadows to the northeast and Mount Conness and the Matterhorn serving as a backdrop, the high peaks of Yosemite to the southeast including Mount Lyell and Mount Dana, the Clark Range stretching to the south, Half Dome and Yosemite Valley stretching to the southwest, and Mount Hoffman and Hoffman’s Thumb to the northwest. It looks good from all sides, has expansive views from its class 4 summit block, and the SE Buttress is considered a classic climbing route. Unfortunately since we had sort of broken up that pitch, I needed to build my final anchor with four nuts and one cam. John and Chris (30 year old males) were on their first climbing trip to Yosemite, and Cathedral was their first objective. Pitches 1-3 of the Southeast Buttress, including the chimney. The approach takes about an hour and is long enough from the road and hiking trails to give you a little peace (often to be shared with many climbers - start early). Cathedral Peak (Afrikaans: Cathedralpiek) is a mountain in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. It then acsends a ramp system into a crack that leads to the pine tree and belay ledge. It looks good from all sides, has expansive views from its class 4 summit block, and the SE Buttress is considered a classic climbing route. With 800 feet of sweeping granite, the climb provides six pitches of technical climbing culminating in a pinnacle summit just large enough for several people. Cathedral Peak offers a typical Elk Mountain ascent with a steep couloir climb thats often on snow and makes having ice axe and crampons handy. The decent wasn’t bad but there was a good amount of snow, which should be completely melted out by now. 3 reviews of Cathedral Peak "Amazing. This lichen limits variations from the "tried and true" routes. The second pitch of climbing trended towards the right and another pine tree belay station. Once they were secure at the base of the chimney I climbed higher, now free of the rope drag. While we were hoping to have enough time for Eichorn Pinnacle, the multiple bottlenecks and time lost during the down climb meant that going for the additional pitch and summit would not be reasonable. The third pitch of climbing started up a series of broken cracks with outstanding jamming, liebacking, stemming or any other technique you would want employ. I built an anchor on a wider ledge that would accommodate the three of us and brought the two up. 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